Guidebook for Lamu
Shopping
This upmarket gallery is the place to come if you're a serious Africana collector. There are pieces from all over the continent and beyond, from affordable Kenyan belts with Maasai bead embroidery to ceremonial Yoruba masks, Central African carvings, heavy Yemeni silver jewellery and gorgeous handwoven shell embroidery.
Gallery Baraka
This upmarket gallery is the place to come if you're a serious Africana collector. There are pieces from all over the continent and beyond, from affordable Kenyan belts with Maasai bead embroidery to ceremonial Yoruba masks, Central African carvings, heavy Yemeni silver jewellery and gorgeous handwoven shell embroidery.
The most charismatic of the local silversmiths is a chap called Slim, whose silversmith shop sells beautiful rings created from ancient cuttings of coloured tiles.
Slim Silver Smith
Kenyatta RoadThe most charismatic of the local silversmiths is a chap called Slim, whose silversmith shop sells beautiful rings created from ancient cuttings of coloured tiles.
Parks & Nature
Most people are here for the beach – a 12km-long, wide sweep of pristine white sand where you’re guaranteed an isolated spot (at least if you’re prepared to walk some way) to catch some rays. Swimming is possible, but there are places with strong rip currents (particularly around the The Fort hotel), so get some local advice before venturing into the water.
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Shela
Most people are here for the beach – a 12km-long, wide sweep of pristine white sand where you’re guaranteed an isolated spot (at least if you’re prepared to walk some way) to catch some rays. Swimming is possible, but there are places with strong rip currents (particularly around the The Fort hotel), so get some local advice before venturing into the water.
Arts & Culture
The best museum in town (and the second best in Kenya) is housed in a grand Swahili warehouse on the waterfront. This is as good a gateway as you’ll get into Swahili culture and that of the archipelago in particular. Exhibitions focus on boat-building, domestic life and weddings, the intricate door carvings that you're likely to encounter (from Swahili and Omani to Kijumwa, Swabu and Bajun) and traditional silver jewellery. Don't miss the ceremonial siwa (side-blow) horns of ivory and brass.
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Lamu Museum
The best museum in town (and the second best in Kenya) is housed in a grand Swahili warehouse on the waterfront. This is as good a gateway as you’ll get into Swahili culture and that of the archipelago in particular. Exhibitions focus on boat-building, domestic life and weddings, the intricate door carvings that you're likely to encounter (from Swahili and Omani to Kijumwa, Swabu and Bajun) and traditional silver jewellery. Don't miss the ceremonial siwa (side-blow) horns of ivory and brass.
A man without a donkey is a donkey, claims one Swahili proverb. Or, as the staff of this sanctuary might tell you, a man who doesn’t look after his donkey is a donkey. With around 3000 donkeys active on Lamu, Equus asinus is the main form of transport here. Visitors are free to visit the sanctuary and learn about its work – donations appreciated.
Donkey Sanctuary
A man without a donkey is a donkey, claims one Swahili proverb. Or, as the staff of this sanctuary might tell you, a man who doesn’t look after his donkey is a donkey. With around 3000 donkeys active on Lamu, Equus asinus is the main form of transport here. Visitors are free to visit the sanctuary and learn about its work – donations appreciated.
This squat castle was built by the Sultan of Paté between 1810 and 1823. From 1910 right up to 1984 it was used as a prison. It now houses the island’s library, which holds one of the best collections of Swahili poetry and Lamu reference work in Kenya, while the upstairs walkway is a gallery space for temporary exhibitions (stunning photos of the Tana River delta, when we visited). Entry is free with a ticket for Lamu Museum.
Lamu Fort
Kenyatta RoadThis squat castle was built by the Sultan of Paté between 1810 and 1823. From 1910 right up to 1984 it was used as a prison. It now houses the island’s library, which holds one of the best collections of Swahili poetry and Lamu reference work in Kenya, while the upstairs walkway is a gallery space for temporary exhibitions (stunning photos of the Tana River delta, when we visited). Entry is free with a ticket for Lamu Museum.
Drinks & Nightlife
Naturally, the bar at a Swiss-owned Kenyan hotel with an Italian name has to resemble an English pub. Pretty much everyone on Shela finds their way to the sunset-watching terrace to happily drift into insolvency over a pricey but expertly mixed sundowner or three.
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Peponi Hotel
Naturally, the bar at a Swiss-owned Kenyan hotel with an Italian name has to resemble an English pub. Pretty much everyone on Shela finds their way to the sunset-watching terrace to happily drift into insolvency over a pricey but expertly mixed sundowner or three.
Right in front of the main jetty, Petley's is the local watering hole for just about everyone. In fact, it's the only non-hotel bar in Lamu to serve alcohol. Expect almost anything, from good fun and merriment to enough hassle to speed you through the doors.
Petleys Inn
Right in front of the main jetty, Petley's is the local watering hole for just about everyone. In fact, it's the only non-hotel bar in Lamu to serve alcohol. Expect almost anything, from good fun and merriment to enough hassle to speed you through the doors.
Food Scene
Choose between global offerings, such as tuna ceviche, Philly cheese steak sandwich and BBQ fish, or get your fill of mostly Italian dishes, such as gnocchi with wild mushrooms. The chocolate cake with pistachio ice cream is worth every penny.
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Peponi Hotel
Choose between global offerings, such as tuna ceviche, Philly cheese steak sandwich and BBQ fish, or get your fill of mostly Italian dishes, such as gnocchi with wild mushrooms. The chocolate cake with pistachio ice cream is worth every penny.
You know how sometimes you just need that escape into the world of magazines and fresh pastries? Welcome to Whispers. For a real cappuccino, light meals, mega juices and smoothies, or the best desserts in town, this cafe with a garden, set in the same building as the Baraka Gallery, is just the ticket.
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Whispers Café
You know how sometimes you just need that escape into the world of magazines and fresh pastries? Welcome to Whispers. For a real cappuccino, light meals, mega juices and smoothies, or the best desserts in town, this cafe with a garden, set in the same building as the Baraka Gallery, is just the ticket.
Particularly strong when it comes to seafood dishes and slightly set back from the waterfront, this is the best restaurant in town. Feast on the likes of fish tacos with mango salsa, ginger crab with coconut rice and such crowd pleasers as chicken and chips.
Moonrise
Particularly strong when it comes to seafood dishes and slightly set back from the waterfront, this is the best restaurant in town. Feast on the likes of fish tacos with mango salsa, ginger crab with coconut rice and such crowd pleasers as chicken and chips.
The Stopover’s friendly staff and excellent grub (of the spicy Swahili-seafood sort) make it a cut above the competition, particularly the seafood curries. Great fruit juices, too.
Stopover Guest House and Restaurant
rdThe Stopover’s friendly staff and excellent grub (of the spicy Swahili-seafood sort) make it a cut above the competition, particularly the seafood curries. Great fruit juices, too.