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Guidebook for Ciudad de México

Patricia

Guidebook for Ciudad de México

Food Scene
The Juárez outlet of this much-lauded bakery is set inside an old townhouse with high ceilings, a wooden balcony and a pretty garden. Pastries and breads are made fresh daily and span conchas(sweet buns), “peasant” bread, focaccia, cinnamon rolls, bolillos (crusty rolls) and baguettes. Their coffee, said to be the best in town, is sourced from organic small-scale Mexican producers. In a city that’s still catching up with others in terms of coffee culture, this is one of your best options to linger, work, meet for lunch and then stroll around the surrounding colonia.
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Panadería Rosetta
179 Colima
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The Juárez outlet of this much-lauded bakery is set inside an old townhouse with high ceilings, a wooden balcony and a pretty garden. Pastries and breads are made fresh daily and span conchas(sweet buns), “peasant” bread, focaccia, cinnamon rolls, bolillos (crusty rolls) and baguettes. Their coffee, said to be the best in town, is sourced from organic small-scale Mexican producers. In a city that’s still catching up with others in terms of coffee culture, this is one of your best options to linger, work, meet for lunch and then stroll around the surrounding colonia.
On a sunny street corner in La Condesa, Italian restaurant Lardo serves up healthy breakfasts, juices, pastries and gourmet coffee. For lunch and dinner, hearty tapas such as tomato and herb-filled calamari, zucchini blossoms with ricotta and baked pasta are shared between groups of friends. Sit at the bar and watch the chefs bustle about the open kitchen, stealing glances at the dishes being prepared in front of your eyes and ordering one too many plates.
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Lardo
6 Agustín Melgar
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On a sunny street corner in La Condesa, Italian restaurant Lardo serves up healthy breakfasts, juices, pastries and gourmet coffee. For lunch and dinner, hearty tapas such as tomato and herb-filled calamari, zucchini blossoms with ricotta and baked pasta are shared between groups of friends. Sit at the bar and watch the chefs bustle about the open kitchen, stealing glances at the dishes being prepared in front of your eyes and ordering one too many plates.
In one of Condesa’s most atmospheric spots – all canopied streets, dog walkers, joggers, fountains and yoga studios – Ojo de Agua has become something of a healthy-eating mecca. Their juice menu spans every possible combination of local fruits and vegetables, their lunch salads and wraps should be eaten on a park bench, and the restaurant serves as a market for organic produce and wellness products. The young-professional crowd are regular customers, and it’s usually packed all day.
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Ojo de Agua
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In one of Condesa’s most atmospheric spots – all canopied streets, dog walkers, joggers, fountains and yoga studios – Ojo de Agua has become something of a healthy-eating mecca. Their juice menu spans every possible combination of local fruits and vegetables, their lunch salads and wraps should be eaten on a park bench, and the restaurant serves as a market for organic produce and wellness products. The young-professional crowd are regular customers, and it’s usually packed all day.
With dedicated old-school service and pristine-white tablecloths, Contramar has always been a staple in La Roma. It serves the best seafood in the city; don’t miss the tuna tostadas with chipotle mayo, caramelised onions and avocado (they have been copied everywhere, but none are quite as good here) and daily fish prepared “a la talla” (to size) with various seasonings. It’s only open for lunch and booking is essential.
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Contramar
202 Calle de Durango
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With dedicated old-school service and pristine-white tablecloths, Contramar has always been a staple in La Roma. It serves the best seafood in the city; don’t miss the tuna tostadas with chipotle mayo, caramelised onions and avocado (they have been copied everywhere, but none are quite as good here) and daily fish prepared “a la talla” (to size) with various seasonings. It’s only open for lunch and booking is essential.
This is the place to get a glimpse of Mexico City’s cool cats. Busy and somewhat chaotic, Parnita fills up daily with a local creative crowd who come to socialise and network. The menu is mainly composed of snack foods such as tacos, chile rellenos (stuffed peppers), ceviche and tlacoyos (cornmeal-dough pockets). The idea is to share plates, order mezcal after mezcal and indulge in the Mexican notion of sobremesa, translating to “over-the-table” and meaning a long, boozy lunch that stretches into the evening.
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El Parnita
84 Av. Yucatan
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This is the place to get a glimpse of Mexico City’s cool cats. Busy and somewhat chaotic, Parnita fills up daily with a local creative crowd who come to socialise and network. The menu is mainly composed of snack foods such as tacos, chile rellenos (stuffed peppers), ceviche and tlacoyos (cornmeal-dough pockets). The idea is to share plates, order mezcal after mezcal and indulge in the Mexican notion of sobremesa, translating to “over-the-table” and meaning a long, boozy lunch that stretches into the evening.
When the team at Maximo Bistrot says "daily-changing menu," they mean it. Early every morning, the cooks at this Parisian-inspired corner restaurant head to the local markets to buy the day's freshest ingredients, and then chef Eduardo Garcia comes up with the dishes: Luscious risottos, perfectly moist roast chicken, an amazing burnt eggplant dip, even a simple beet dish is a revelation. It's no surprise that celebrities, tourists, local office workers, and residents all happily share this teensy, charming eatery.
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Máximo Bistrot
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When the team at Maximo Bistrot says "daily-changing menu," they mean it. Early every morning, the cooks at this Parisian-inspired corner restaurant head to the local markets to buy the day's freshest ingredients, and then chef Eduardo Garcia comes up with the dishes: Luscious risottos, perfectly moist roast chicken, an amazing burnt eggplant dip, even a simple beet dish is a revelation. It's no surprise that celebrities, tourists, local office workers, and residents all happily share this teensy, charming eatery.
Located in what was once a Beaux Arts mansion in the Roma neighborhood, Rosetta has a distinctly homey feel, with a dining room painted in pastel frescoes that wind through the restaurant's many rooms. Here, Chef/owner Elena Reygadas—who trained with Giorgio Locatelli at his restaurant in London—dishes out a daily-changing menu with fresh burrata to start, fantastic risottos, stunningly delicate pasta dishes, and house-made bread so good she's now opened two bakeries. This is undoubtedly the best Italian in the city and it comes with its fleet of die-hard fans, so reservations are a must.
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Rosetta
166 Colima
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Located in what was once a Beaux Arts mansion in the Roma neighborhood, Rosetta has a distinctly homey feel, with a dining room painted in pastel frescoes that wind through the restaurant's many rooms. Here, Chef/owner Elena Reygadas—who trained with Giorgio Locatelli at his restaurant in London—dishes out a daily-changing menu with fresh burrata to start, fantastic risottos, stunningly delicate pasta dishes, and house-made bread so good she's now opened two bakeries. This is undoubtedly the best Italian in the city and it comes with its fleet of die-hard fans, so reservations are a must.
This local food market near Centro is where all the gourmet, rare and exotic foods are to be found; top chefs, restaurateurs and purveyors arrive at the break of dawn to secure the cream of the crop. It has its origins in the pre-Hispanic open-air markets known as “tianguis” where produce would be laid out on the floor. If you wander the aisles, you’ll quickly pick up on the many nuances that compromise the Mexican palate, along with stranger ingredients such as crocodile, ostrich, kangaroo, stingrays and chicatana salsa made from Oaxacan flying ants. Indispensable stops are at Delicatessen La Jersey Gourmet, Las Tapas de San Juan and Productos Oaxaqueños to try everything from the country’s
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Mercado de San Juan
21 2ᵃ Calle de Ernesto Pugibet
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This local food market near Centro is where all the gourmet, rare and exotic foods are to be found; top chefs, restaurateurs and purveyors arrive at the break of dawn to secure the cream of the crop. It has its origins in the pre-Hispanic open-air markets known as “tianguis” where produce would be laid out on the floor. If you wander the aisles, you’ll quickly pick up on the many nuances that compromise the Mexican palate, along with stranger ingredients such as crocodile, ostrich, kangaroo, stingrays and chicatana salsa made from Oaxacan flying ants. Indispensable stops are at Delicatessen La Jersey Gourmet, Las Tapas de San Juan and Productos Oaxaqueños to try everything from the country’s
This 17th-century hacienda has been both a monastery and a factory for pulque (a spirit made from fermented agave sap) in its former life. Its gardens, patios and ballrooms still retain a colonial feel and it’s a lovely place to stop for a tamarind margarita when you’re exploring the southern neighbourhoods. Relax in the peaceful courtyard while soaking up San Ángel’s unique charm
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San Ángel Inn
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This 17th-century hacienda has been both a monastery and a factory for pulque (a spirit made from fermented agave sap) in its former life. Its gardens, patios and ballrooms still retain a colonial feel and it’s a lovely place to stop for a tamarind margarita when you’re exploring the southern neighbourhoods. Relax in the peaceful courtyard while soaking up San Ángel’s unique charm
Amaya is the second offering from chef Jaír Téllez – who helped place Mexico’s Valle de Guadalupe on the culinary map with his first restaurant, Laja – and is a fusion of Baja Californian and Mediterranean cuisine. An effortlessly cool spot where colourful floor tiles and exposed-brick walls create industrial yet chic surrounds, it’s one of the few places in Mexico City where you can eat at the bar. The soft-shell crab has become somewhat of a cult classic and the all-natural wine list reflects Laja’s roots in the wine region, while being an excellent opportunity to sample some local grapes. Order a carajillo as a digestif – it’s the Mexican version of an espresso martini on the rocks and pr
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Amaya
95 Calle Gral. Prim
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Amaya is the second offering from chef Jaír Téllez – who helped place Mexico’s Valle de Guadalupe on the culinary map with his first restaurant, Laja – and is a fusion of Baja Californian and Mediterranean cuisine. An effortlessly cool spot where colourful floor tiles and exposed-brick walls create industrial yet chic surrounds, it’s one of the few places in Mexico City where you can eat at the bar. The soft-shell crab has become somewhat of a cult classic and the all-natural wine list reflects Laja’s roots in the wine region, while being an excellent opportunity to sample some local grapes. Order a carajillo as a digestif – it’s the Mexican version of an espresso martini on the rocks and pr
Enrique Olvera's Pujol tops pretty much every list when it comes to dining in Mexico City. Using native ingredients like ant eggs and huitlacoche (a delicacy made out of corn fungus), he's completely deconstructed Mexican cuisine molecular gastronomy style, so while some of the ingredients may be recognizable, the flavors on offer are totally new. Here, in a small, dark, and unassuming dining room decorated with white tablecloths and stark white tableware, it's Olvera and head chef Erick Guerrero's culinary experiments that take center stage: There might be an egg hidden in a puffed tortilla, or a taco may come in liquid form. The daily-changing prix fixe menus are full of surprises, and a m
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Pujol
133 Tennyson
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Enrique Olvera's Pujol tops pretty much every list when it comes to dining in Mexico City. Using native ingredients like ant eggs and huitlacoche (a delicacy made out of corn fungus), he's completely deconstructed Mexican cuisine molecular gastronomy style, so while some of the ingredients may be recognizable, the flavors on offer are totally new. Here, in a small, dark, and unassuming dining room decorated with white tablecloths and stark white tableware, it's Olvera and head chef Erick Guerrero's culinary experiments that take center stage: There might be an egg hidden in a puffed tortilla, or a taco may come in liquid form. The daily-changing prix fixe menus are full of surprises, and a m
After opening their wonderful café, Delirio, on a busy corner in the Roma, prominent chef Monica Patiño and her daughter Micaela Miguel managed to charm the building's owner, an elderly woman named Virginia, into renting them the entire building—a 1920's French Beaux Arts-style home with high ceilings, tall windows, and old-fashioned tiled floors. They then created Casa Virginia, a homey and refined space. The menu changes often, including ratatouilles—the restaurant's now-famous red snapper covered in tapenade—and a great assortment of veg-centric, seasonal dishes are all served family-style in the airy, white-washed dining room.
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Casa Virginia
116 Monterrey
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After opening their wonderful café, Delirio, on a busy corner in the Roma, prominent chef Monica Patiño and her daughter Micaela Miguel managed to charm the building's owner, an elderly woman named Virginia, into renting them the entire building—a 1920's French Beaux Arts-style home with high ceilings, tall windows, and old-fashioned tiled floors. They then created Casa Virginia, a homey and refined space. The menu changes often, including ratatouilles—the restaurant's now-famous red snapper covered in tapenade—and a great assortment of veg-centric, seasonal dishes are all served family-style in the airy, white-washed dining room.
Ricardo Muñoz Zurita, the chef behind this small chain of restaurants, has developed and re-discovered certain moles and salsas that were otherwise almost totally unknown in Mexico City, even among serious foodies. The Mole Negro, heavily condimented Chipotle salsa, and Oaxacan tortilla soup are just a few of the highlights that also happen to be among the most affordable when it comes to serious gourmet eats in town. Of his four restaurants, his latest opening on the patio of a 17th-century palace, is definitely the most glamorous, and a heavenly break from the Centro's busy streets.
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Azul Historico
30 Calle Isabel la Catolica
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Ricardo Muñoz Zurita, the chef behind this small chain of restaurants, has developed and re-discovered certain moles and salsas that were otherwise almost totally unknown in Mexico City, even among serious foodies. The Mole Negro, heavily condimented Chipotle salsa, and Oaxacan tortilla soup are just a few of the highlights that also happen to be among the most affordable when it comes to serious gourmet eats in town. Of his four restaurants, his latest opening on the patio of a 17th-century palace, is definitely the most glamorous, and a heavenly break from the Centro's busy streets.
Hotel Casa Awolly is not a hotel but a three-storey 20th-century Porfirian mansion that has been reappropriated to house a restaurant, a rooftop terrace, a cinema and several individually decorated rooms off a central courtyard. Patterns, textures and colors clash in a refreshingly eclectic manner courtesy of interior designer Dirk Jan Kinet and select cocktails complete the sense of surrealism by arriving in a mirrored prism in which you can see your reflection prior to imbibing it.
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Hotel Casa Awolly
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Hotel Casa Awolly is not a hotel but a three-storey 20th-century Porfirian mansion that has been reappropriated to house a restaurant, a rooftop terrace, a cinema and several individually decorated rooms off a central courtyard. Patterns, textures and colors clash in a refreshingly eclectic manner courtesy of interior designer Dirk Jan Kinet and select cocktails complete the sense of surrealism by arriving in a mirrored prism in which you can see your reflection prior to imbibing it.
By day, the Covadonga's denizens are generally old Spanish guys playing dominoes and eating traditional Asturian delicacies like tortilla espanola, but by night it's a whole different demographic that flocks here. Young local hipsters arrive around 7pm to begin their night out with a few beers—and shots—among friends. It's an old cantina—a traditional drinking den—and the futbol is always on TV, the aging waiters wear prim black vests over starchy white shirts, and the interiors haven't had a makeover in what feels like 50 years. It's comforting to know, though, that even in the Roma, one of the hippest parts of town, some places never change.
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Covadonga
121 Puebla
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By day, the Covadonga's denizens are generally old Spanish guys playing dominoes and eating traditional Asturian delicacies like tortilla espanola, but by night it's a whole different demographic that flocks here. Young local hipsters arrive around 7pm to begin their night out with a few beers—and shots—among friends. It's an old cantina—a traditional drinking den—and the futbol is always on TV, the aging waiters wear prim black vests over starchy white shirts, and the interiors haven't had a makeover in what feels like 50 years. It's comforting to know, though, that even in the Roma, one of the hippest parts of town, some places never change.
Skip through the dimly-lit and often over-crowded cocktail bar and head straight through the secret door into the open air patio, where gin cocktails are the mainstay pretty much all day long. There's often live jazz in the patio, and light Italian fare is served from morning till late at night, when the bar becomes a scene that spills onto the street. Primetime here are the afternoons when you can skip away for a quiet cocktail with friends—and live background music if you're lucky.
Aurora Musica Viva
126 Av. Álvaro Obregón
Skip through the dimly-lit and often over-crowded cocktail bar and head straight through the secret door into the open air patio, where gin cocktails are the mainstay pretty much all day long. There's often live jazz in the patio, and light Italian fare is served from morning till late at night, when the bar becomes a scene that spills onto the street. Primetime here are the afternoons when you can skip away for a quiet cocktail with friends—and live background music if you're lucky.
This is one of the most beautiful candy shops in Mexico, if not the world. In the same spot in the Centro for over a century, the space itself is a relic from a time past: The wooden display cabinets, baroque-style mirrors, and even the sign haven't changed in over 100 years. The sweets haven't changed much either, as the Dulceria is one of the only places where you can still find such an array of traditional sweets from cajeta, to mazapan, to cocadas, to an insanely sweet, perfectly moist pay de rompope (eggnog cake).
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Dulcería de Celaya S.A. de C.V.
39 5 de Mayo
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This is one of the most beautiful candy shops in Mexico, if not the world. In the same spot in the Centro for over a century, the space itself is a relic from a time past: The wooden display cabinets, baroque-style mirrors, and even the sign haven't changed in over 100 years. The sweets haven't changed much either, as the Dulceria is one of the only places where you can still find such an array of traditional sweets from cajeta, to mazapan, to cocadas, to an insanely sweet, perfectly moist pay de rompope (eggnog cake).
This legendary "churreria" has been open in the same locale in the Centro since 1935 when the Spanish owners bought the property and imported the Spanish fried-dough delicacy to Mexico. They've been going ever since, in the same old building, with floor to ceiling tiled interiors, and the same menu of churros and four hot chocolate varieties—the thick Spanish version, traditional French style, cinnamon and vanilla-infused Mexican variety, and Swiss, which comes with whipped cream. There are a couple of new specialties on offer, including their take on the ice-cream sandwich, but nothing beats dipping a plain churro into a mug of hot chocolate. If the Centro is too much of a journey, they hav
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Churreria the Moro
225 Calle Querétaro
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This legendary "churreria" has been open in the same locale in the Centro since 1935 when the Spanish owners bought the property and imported the Spanish fried-dough delicacy to Mexico. They've been going ever since, in the same old building, with floor to ceiling tiled interiors, and the same menu of churros and four hot chocolate varieties—the thick Spanish version, traditional French style, cinnamon and vanilla-infused Mexican variety, and Swiss, which comes with whipped cream. There are a couple of new specialties on offer, including their take on the ice-cream sandwich, but nothing beats dipping a plain churro into a mug of hot chocolate. If the Centro is too much of a journey, they hav
Drinks & Nightlife
Run by a group of young French expats, this cosy restaurant and cocktail parlour hosts live music (think jazz, folk, blues) every Tuesday night. The French-Mediterranean restaurant is illuminated by twinkling candlelight; after dinner, head to the lounge upstairs – one of the only bars in La Roma – where you’ll find comfortable sofas and drinks served in vintage crystalware. Try the zacatecas old fashioned (bourbon, homemade sugar syrup, bitters and burnt orange) and absinthes sourced from around the world.
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Maison Artemisia
23 Tonalá
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Run by a group of young French expats, this cosy restaurant and cocktail parlour hosts live music (think jazz, folk, blues) every Tuesday night. The French-Mediterranean restaurant is illuminated by twinkling candlelight; after dinner, head to the lounge upstairs – one of the only bars in La Roma – where you’ll find comfortable sofas and drinks served in vintage crystalware. Try the zacatecas old fashioned (bourbon, homemade sugar syrup, bitters and burnt orange) and absinthes sourced from around the world.
This is the after-hours club of Mexico City, often hosting famous international DJs and artists. It’s the kind of place that everyone somehow ends up at, so try your best to get there before 3AM to avoid the chaotic queues on the pavement. The building once belonged to Mexican communist party founder M. N. Roy and was converted into a nightclub by French architects Emmanuel Picault and Ludwig Godefroy. Word of warning: time melts away in dark corners and on the sweaty dancefloor here – before you know it the sun has risen and it’s time to go home.
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M.N. Roy
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This is the after-hours club of Mexico City, often hosting famous international DJs and artists. It’s the kind of place that everyone somehow ends up at, so try your best to get there before 3AM to avoid the chaotic queues on the pavement. The building once belonged to Mexican communist party founder M. N. Roy and was converted into a nightclub by French architects Emmanuel Picault and Ludwig Godefroy. Word of warning: time melts away in dark corners and on the sweaty dancefloor here – before you know it the sun has risen and it’s time to go home.
Baltra is inspired by Darwin’s exploration of the Galapagos Islands in the 19th century. The team behind it is the group from Limantour, another popular haunt in the city which has made it to the lists of the World’s Best Bars. On our visit, it was their “apium o opium” cocktail that stole the show – a mix of mezcal, citrus and celery bitters. The atmosphere is warm and mellow with friends joining tables together beneath sketches from Darwin’s travels, mummified butterflies and ostrich eggs.
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Baltra Bar
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Baltra is inspired by Darwin’s exploration of the Galapagos Islands in the 19th century. The team behind it is the group from Limantour, another popular haunt in the city which has made it to the lists of the World’s Best Bars. On our visit, it was their “apium o opium” cocktail that stole the show – a mix of mezcal, citrus and celery bitters. The atmosphere is warm and mellow with friends joining tables together beneath sketches from Darwin’s travels, mummified butterflies and ostrich eggs.
A small, clandestine dive bar in Mexico City’s historic centre, Bósforo has slowly made a name for itself through its rare mezcal menu and off-the-beaten-track location. In this part of the city, streets are organised according to commodities. Enter Bósforp through a rusty metal door on the street of lamps and lights. Try an Espadín mezcal if it’s your first time, or for more robust flavours ask about the Tobalá or Tepextate. Their blue-maize quesadillas are known to be some of the best in town too.
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Bósforo
31 Luis Moya
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A small, clandestine dive bar in Mexico City’s historic centre, Bósforo has slowly made a name for itself through its rare mezcal menu and off-the-beaten-track location. In this part of the city, streets are organised according to commodities. Enter Bósforp through a rusty metal door on the street of lamps and lights. Try an Espadín mezcal if it’s your first time, or for more robust flavours ask about the Tobalá or Tepextate. Their blue-maize quesadillas are known to be some of the best in town too.
The city’s best jazz bar is hidden underground inside a former bank vault in Centro. Entering feels like walking into a scene from the James Bond’s Spectre, which was set just a few blocks away. The crowd is made up of bohemians, students, intellectuals, business types – anyone who enjoys good music – thanks to nightly live acts ranging from Mexican jazz bands to swing, soul and blues.
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Zinco Jazz Club
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The city’s best jazz bar is hidden underground inside a former bank vault in Centro. Entering feels like walking into a scene from the James Bond’s Spectre, which was set just a few blocks away. The crowd is made up of bohemians, students, intellectuals, business types – anyone who enjoys good music – thanks to nightly live acts ranging from Mexican jazz bands to swing, soul and blues.
A welcome addition to Mexico City’s late-night scene, Casa Franca is a multi-room jazz bar that conjures the spirit of prohibition-era speakeasies. Rooms are scattered with eccentric design details and appear to be connected in a haphazard fashion that creates an air of mystery and provides perfect corners for seduction. Well-executed cocktails, live music and delicious tapas create a fun setting for couples or groups looking to reserve a whole room to themselves.
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Casa Franca
109 Mérida
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A welcome addition to Mexico City’s late-night scene, Casa Franca is a multi-room jazz bar that conjures the spirit of prohibition-era speakeasies. Rooms are scattered with eccentric design details and appear to be connected in a haphazard fashion that creates an air of mystery and provides perfect corners for seduction. Well-executed cocktails, live music and delicious tapas create a fun setting for couples or groups looking to reserve a whole room to themselves.
El Departamento or “the apartment” is exactly as the name suggests, presenting a relaxed space reminiscent of your musician friend’s apartment. Turntables sit in the corner and a evolving roster of local artists’ work adorns the walls, adding to the casually cool nature of the place. Drop by post-dinner and don’t be surprised if the live music turns a quick drink into an evening of dancing and debauchery.
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Departamento
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El Departamento or “the apartment” is exactly as the name suggests, presenting a relaxed space reminiscent of your musician friend’s apartment. Turntables sit in the corner and a evolving roster of local artists’ work adorns the walls, adding to the casually cool nature of the place. Drop by post-dinner and don’t be surprised if the live music turns a quick drink into an evening of dancing and debauchery.
If El Departamento takes you from dinner to drinks, then El Paraiso takes you from drinks to dancing and late-night tacos. A perfect antidote to the heavier MN Roy, Café Paraíso is a club doesn’t take itself too seriously and plays a selection of fun beats in a tropico setting. Surprisingly small and intimate, be prepared to dance and make new friends.
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Café Paraíso
17 Plaza Villa de Madrid
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If El Departamento takes you from dinner to drinks, then El Paraiso takes you from drinks to dancing and late-night tacos. A perfect antidote to the heavier MN Roy, Café Paraíso is a club doesn’t take itself too seriously and plays a selection of fun beats in a tropico setting. Surprisingly small and intimate, be prepared to dance and make new friends.
The neighborhood where CondesaDF is located is host to some of the more hipster-y bars in town but that's definitely not the case at the fourth floor terrace here. Up among the jacaranda trees, guests perch on a few comfy lounge chairs and munch on the offerings from the "Smart Sushi" menu. The cocktails are fairly standard—and good—but it's the views of the turn of the century architecture nearby, and the tranquility that make the hotel's terrace a perfect escape. Later on, after a few cocktails, head down to the hotel's underground nightclub which tends to get packed on the weekends.
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La Condesa
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The neighborhood where CondesaDF is located is host to some of the more hipster-y bars in town but that's definitely not the case at the fourth floor terrace here. Up among the jacaranda trees, guests perch on a few comfy lounge chairs and munch on the offerings from the "Smart Sushi" menu. The cocktails are fairly standard—and good—but it's the views of the turn of the century architecture nearby, and the tranquility that make the hotel's terrace a perfect escape. Later on, after a few cocktails, head down to the hotel's underground nightclub which tends to get packed on the weekends.
Inspired by the trend for speakeasy bars in NYC, Jules Basement jumped on the bandwagon and brought the concept to Mexico in 2012. And like its NYC predecessors, there are rules here: You must make a reservation in advance, you must enter through an industrial refrigerator door at the back of a taqueria, and once inside the striking, leather-clad, subterranean bar there are no Jägermeisters, bad beers, or Red Bull-based drinks allowed. All of this makes for a pretty civilized evening enjoying both classic cocktails like Manhattans and Martinis and some pretty amazing riffs on these, like the mezcal laced Campari cocktail. Tuesdays are the best night to make a reservation as there's always li
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Jules Basement
93 Calle Julio Verne
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Inspired by the trend for speakeasy bars in NYC, Jules Basement jumped on the bandwagon and brought the concept to Mexico in 2012. And like its NYC predecessors, there are rules here: You must make a reservation in advance, you must enter through an industrial refrigerator door at the back of a taqueria, and once inside the striking, leather-clad, subterranean bar there are no Jägermeisters, bad beers, or Red Bull-based drinks allowed. All of this makes for a pretty civilized evening enjoying both classic cocktails like Manhattans and Martinis and some pretty amazing riffs on these, like the mezcal laced Campari cocktail. Tuesdays are the best night to make a reservation as there's always li
Arts & Culture
A handsome mansion in the Juárez neighbourhood is home to this contemporary-art gallery promoting both Mexican and international artists. MARSO collaborates with cultural institutions, runs residency programmes, publishes books and represents rising talent such as Virginia Colwell, Michael Conrads and Jong Oh. Check out their “salaseis” room, meant for the exchange of ideas between design, architecture and invention.
Fundación Marso
37 Berlín
A handsome mansion in the Juárez neighbourhood is home to this contemporary-art gallery promoting both Mexican and international artists. MARSO collaborates with cultural institutions, runs residency programmes, publishes books and represents rising talent such as Virginia Colwell, Michael Conrads and Jong Oh. Check out their “salaseis” room, meant for the exchange of ideas between design, architecture and invention.
Founded by renowned architect Mathias Goeritz in the 1950s, El Eco still upholds his vision of an interdisciplinary meeting space for the arts. Those who know Barragán (who collaborated on the museum) will recognise his play on light and space within the building’s walls and corridors, as well as his signature architecture in which visitors experience the space as a penetrable sculpture to interact with. The annual architectural competition Pavilion Eco takes place in the museum’s central patio.
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El Eco
43 James Sullivan
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Founded by renowned architect Mathias Goeritz in the 1950s, El Eco still upholds his vision of an interdisciplinary meeting space for the arts. Those who know Barragán (who collaborated on the museum) will recognise his play on light and space within the building’s walls and corridors, as well as his signature architecture in which visitors experience the space as a penetrable sculpture to interact with. The annual architectural competition Pavilion Eco takes place in the museum’s central patio.
A neighbourhood favourite, this is an independent cinema which holds daily screenings of rising Mexican talent as well a rotating selection of international films. In the cinema’s dimly lit antechamber, vintage Jodorowsky posters line the walls along with popcorn machines, a café serving pizza and communal tables where you’ll find people discussing the latest film. Tonalá also holds concerts, workshops, comedy nights and other events, so check their calendar to see what’s on while you’re in town.
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Cine Tonalá En La Roma
261 Tonalá
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A neighbourhood favourite, this is an independent cinema which holds daily screenings of rising Mexican talent as well a rotating selection of international films. In the cinema’s dimly lit antechamber, vintage Jodorowsky posters line the walls along with popcorn machines, a café serving pizza and communal tables where you’ll find people discussing the latest film. Tonalá also holds concerts, workshops, comedy nights and other events, so check their calendar to see what’s on while you’re in town.
This striking white-marble palace is the city’s main concert and arts hall. It has several quirky architectural details as it was built in phases by various architects of different nationalities. Its exterior is principally neoclassical and art nouveau (interlaced with indigenous mythological symbols and characters, such as depictions of Tlaloc and Chaac, the Aztec and Maya deities of water) while inside art deco and marble reign. On the top floor you’ll find sweeping murals by Rufino Tamayo, Diego Rivera and Siqueiros among others.
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Palača lijepe umjetnosti
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This striking white-marble palace is the city’s main concert and arts hall. It has several quirky architectural details as it was built in phases by various architects of different nationalities. Its exterior is principally neoclassical and art nouveau (interlaced with indigenous mythological symbols and characters, such as depictions of Tlaloc and Chaac, the Aztec and Maya deities of water) while inside art deco and marble reign. On the top floor you’ll find sweeping murals by Rufino Tamayo, Diego Rivera and Siqueiros among others.
Located in southern Mexico City, UNAM is Latin America’s largest university and houses some incredible architecture (it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site) as well as the MUAC museum and a sculpture garden from some of the country’s greatest artists. Its main campus was built during the 1950s on an ancient solidified lava bed and is almost a separate region within Mexico City, with its own regulations and councils. Wander the university passages and stare up at the thought-provoking murals, which illustrate different strains of intellectual thought. Check out their website for the latest concerts and events, as MUAC often holds some of the best exhibitions in the country and the Neza concert hal
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University City
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Located in southern Mexico City, UNAM is Latin America’s largest university and houses some incredible architecture (it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site) as well as the MUAC museum and a sculpture garden from some of the country’s greatest artists. Its main campus was built during the 1950s on an ancient solidified lava bed and is almost a separate region within Mexico City, with its own regulations and councils. Wander the university passages and stare up at the thought-provoking murals, which illustrate different strains of intellectual thought. Check out their website for the latest concerts and events, as MUAC often holds some of the best exhibitions in the country and the Neza concert hal
An imposing structure towering over a hill in the city’s south, el Museo Anahuacalli epitomises the magnetism and force of its founder, artist Diego Rivera. Made from volcanic stone, the museum almost resembles an Aztec temple and was indeed constructed to form a teocalli (god house) influenced by the Teotihuacan culture with Mayan and Aztec touches – note the hexagonal and rectangular arcs that serve as entrances to the different showrooms. Among the 50,000 pieces of pre-Hispanic art are funerary urns, masks and sculptures and an exhibition of papier-mâché sculpture relating to the Day of the Dead.
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Museo Anahuacalli
150 Museo
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An imposing structure towering over a hill in the city’s south, el Museo Anahuacalli epitomises the magnetism and force of its founder, artist Diego Rivera. Made from volcanic stone, the museum almost resembles an Aztec temple and was indeed constructed to form a teocalli (god house) influenced by the Teotihuacan culture with Mayan and Aztec touches – note the hexagonal and rectangular arcs that serve as entrances to the different showrooms. Among the 50,000 pieces of pre-Hispanic art are funerary urns, masks and sculptures and an exhibition of papier-mâché sculpture relating to the Day of the Dead.
Designed by architect Pedro Ramírez Vázquez, this museum is a journey through the tapestry of cultures and history that make up Mexico. The 12 ground-floor halls are each dedicated to a different pre-Hispanic region or culture, while the upper-level showcases contemporary Mexican society. As you wander the rooms, you’ll enter gardens with full-scale replicas of tombs and the renowned Aztec sun stone that was discovered under the city in 1970. Anyone wishing to understand the dynamics of Mexico at all should pay a visit.
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Museo Nacional de Antropología
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Designed by architect Pedro Ramírez Vázquez, this museum is a journey through the tapestry of cultures and history that make up Mexico. The 12 ground-floor halls are each dedicated to a different pre-Hispanic region or culture, while the upper-level showcases contemporary Mexican society. As you wander the rooms, you’ll enter gardens with full-scale replicas of tombs and the renowned Aztec sun stone that was discovered under the city in 1970. Anyone wishing to understand the dynamics of Mexico at all should pay a visit.
A contemporary-art museum designed by David Chipperfield, el Museo Jumex exhibits part of one of the largest private collections of contemporary art in Latin America (works include Jeff Koons, Andreas Gursky, Olafur Eliasson and Gabriel Orozco). The museum’s unique saw-tooth roof is made from white concrete and was designed to imbue the upper levels of the museum with natural light, while each space is adapted in an original way every time a new curator intervenes.
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Museo Jumex
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A contemporary-art museum designed by David Chipperfield, el Museo Jumex exhibits part of one of the largest private collections of contemporary art in Latin America (works include Jeff Koons, Andreas Gursky, Olafur Eliasson and Gabriel Orozco). The museum’s unique saw-tooth roof is made from white concrete and was designed to imbue the upper levels of the museum with natural light, while each space is adapted in an original way every time a new curator intervenes.
Fun fact: Mexico was, for a short time, under the rule of Maximilian I, a puppet emperor put in place by Napoleon III. The empire didn't last long, but his 18th-century castle on a hill overlooking Chapultepec Park remains. Today it's the National Museum of History, adorned in historical murals by José Clemente Orozco, Juan O'Gorman, and David Alfaro Siqueiros, and displaying costumes and historical ephemera from the 16th-century on. The most exciting rooms, though, are the ones that show exactly how the Emperor and his wife lived in the castle; meanwhile, the views of the park below are stunning.
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Chapultepec Castle
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Fun fact: Mexico was, for a short time, under the rule of Maximilian I, a puppet emperor put in place by Napoleon III. The empire didn't last long, but his 18th-century castle on a hill overlooking Chapultepec Park remains. Today it's the National Museum of History, adorned in historical murals by José Clemente Orozco, Juan O'Gorman, and David Alfaro Siqueiros, and displaying costumes and historical ephemera from the 16th-century on. The most exciting rooms, though, are the ones that show exactly how the Emperor and his wife lived in the castle; meanwhile, the views of the park below are stunning.
Dolores Olmedo was one of Diego Rivera's greatest patrons and her home, an ex-hacienda near Xochimilco, houses her collection of his works through the years, along with those of other artists and craftsmen she supported during her lifetime. While the collections are magnificent, and a real window into the breadth of Rivera's talents and career, the expansive grounds themselves—gorgeous native gardens that are home to her beloved hairless Xoloescuintle dogs and a family of peacocks—are a heavenly respite from the city's busy streets. In October and November, the museum puts on an awesome Day of the Dead display, as Doña Lola always did when she was alive
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Museo Dolores Olmedo
5843 México
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Dolores Olmedo was one of Diego Rivera's greatest patrons and her home, an ex-hacienda near Xochimilco, houses her collection of his works through the years, along with those of other artists and craftsmen she supported during her lifetime. While the collections are magnificent, and a real window into the breadth of Rivera's talents and career, the expansive grounds themselves—gorgeous native gardens that are home to her beloved hairless Xoloescuintle dogs and a family of peacocks—are a heavenly respite from the city's busy streets. In October and November, the museum puts on an awesome Day of the Dead display, as Doña Lola always did when she was alive
When Hernan Cortés and his army of Spanish conquistadores arrived in México city—then Tenochtitlan—they raised the Aztec capital, destroyed its temples, and used many of the building materials to erect their own palaces and, famously, the Cathedral. There are few remnants left of what was once the capital of the vast Mesoamerican Empire, but the ruins of their most important temple, the Templo Mayor, which is located right next to the Zócalo, were discovered in the late '70s and have been open to visitors ever since. The site is an active archaeological dig, with some pretty impressive ancient frescoes, and an on-site museum displaying the thousands of ancient artefacts—elaborate offerings m
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Templo Mayor Museum
8 Seminario
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When Hernan Cortés and his army of Spanish conquistadores arrived in México city—then Tenochtitlan—they raised the Aztec capital, destroyed its temples, and used many of the building materials to erect their own palaces and, famously, the Cathedral. There are few remnants left of what was once the capital of the vast Mesoamerican Empire, but the ruins of their most important temple, the Templo Mayor, which is located right next to the Zócalo, were discovered in the late '70s and have been open to visitors ever since. The site is an active archaeological dig, with some pretty impressive ancient frescoes, and an on-site museum displaying the thousands of ancient artefacts—elaborate offerings m
Monica Manzutto and her husband José Kuri's gallery is probably the first to roll off anyone's tongue when talking about the contemporary art scene in Mexico. Together with their pal Gabriel Orozco, probably Mexico's most famous contemporary artist, in the early 2000's they came up with the idea of presenting the work of their contemporaries in pop-up spaces all over the city (and the world). Of course, nowadays, those artists—among them, Daniel Guzmán, Abraham Cruzvillegas, Damián Ortega—are big names and so is Kurimanzutto, which settled into a gorgeous gallery space in 2008, with quite the roster of local and international artists. Don't miss this gallery: The exquisite Alberto Kalach-des
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kurimanzutto
94 Gobernador Rafael Rebollar
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Monica Manzutto and her husband José Kuri's gallery is probably the first to roll off anyone's tongue when talking about the contemporary art scene in Mexico. Together with their pal Gabriel Orozco, probably Mexico's most famous contemporary artist, in the early 2000's they came up with the idea of presenting the work of their contemporaries in pop-up spaces all over the city (and the world). Of course, nowadays, those artists—among them, Daniel Guzmán, Abraham Cruzvillegas, Damián Ortega—are big names and so is Kurimanzutto, which settled into a gorgeous gallery space in 2008, with quite the roster of local and international artists. Don't miss this gallery: The exquisite Alberto Kalach-des
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Galería OMR
54 Plaza Río de Janeiro
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This is one of the main stops on the Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo pilgrimage, as they lived in this home on and off for twenty years. Their muralist friend Juan O'Gorman designed the now iconic house specifically for them, with separate buildings for each, united by a drawbridge between the two (they notoriously needed a lot of space from one another). It's a quick stop that's mostly worth it for the architecture, with a small temporary exhibition space, a few rooms dedicated to both artists, and Diego's studio, where he made many of his most famous paintings surrounded by floor-to-ceiling windows and huge paper maché Judas sculptures.
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Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo
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This is one of the main stops on the Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo pilgrimage, as they lived in this home on and off for twenty years. Their muralist friend Juan O'Gorman designed the now iconic house specifically for them, with separate buildings for each, united by a drawbridge between the two (they notoriously needed a lot of space from one another). It's a quick stop that's mostly worth it for the architecture, with a small temporary exhibition space, a few rooms dedicated to both artists, and Diego's studio, where he made many of his most famous paintings surrounded by floor-to-ceiling windows and huge paper maché Judas sculptures.
Tucked away in a residential neighborhood near Chapultepec park, you'll find a handful of homes and gardens designed by Mexico's only Pritzker prize winning architect, Luis Barragan. His home, which he designed in its entirety, from the structure to the furniture to the color palette, is pretty much exactly as he left it and open for reserved tours only. They're generally conducted by lucky architecture students who, aside from showing you around the house, demonstrating his playful tricks with light and optics, are happy to share juicy tidbits about his life. If you get bitten by the Barragan bug—it tends to happen—they'll also hook you up with the contact information for some of the other
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Luis Barragán House and Studio
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Tucked away in a residential neighborhood near Chapultepec park, you'll find a handful of homes and gardens designed by Mexico's only Pritzker prize winning architect, Luis Barragan. His home, which he designed in its entirety, from the structure to the furniture to the color palette, is pretty much exactly as he left it and open for reserved tours only. They're generally conducted by lucky architecture students who, aside from showing you around the house, demonstrating his playful tricks with light and optics, are happy to share juicy tidbits about his life. If you get bitten by the Barragan bug—it tends to happen—they'll also hook you up with the contact information for some of the other
This massive public library is absolutely striking and worth the journey for anyone with an interest in architecture. Designed by Alberto Kalach, amazingly, the bookshelves actually form part of the building's structure, so that the individual book spines fill the space with thousands of colors. A Gabriel Orozco whale skeleton hangs in the lobby and there's a well-manicured botanical garden outside, just a couple more reasons why this space is so awesome to hang out in, regardless of whether you're checking out a book.
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Biblioteca Vasconcelos
S/N Eje 1 Norte (Mosqueta) esq. Aldama
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This massive public library is absolutely striking and worth the journey for anyone with an interest in architecture. Designed by Alberto Kalach, amazingly, the bookshelves actually form part of the building's structure, so that the individual book spines fill the space with thousands of colors. A Gabriel Orozco whale skeleton hangs in the lobby and there's a well-manicured botanical garden outside, just a couple more reasons why this space is so awesome to hang out in, regardless of whether you're checking out a book.
Entertainment & Activities
Plaza Garibaldi surpasses every clichéd expectation one could have of mariachis in Mexico. The sprawling square in the historic downtown of Mexico City is lined with traditional cantinas and full of mariachi bands in the most marvellous outfits looking for business at all hours. Mexicans will still head to the plaza to secure a band for a family event or spend the evening drinking and singing among friends. Secure a table in the well-known Salon Tenampa on the north side of the plaza, order some mezcal and embrace Mexico at its finest.
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Plaza Garibaldi
43 Eje Central Lázaro Cárdenas
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Plaza Garibaldi surpasses every clichéd expectation one could have of mariachis in Mexico. The sprawling square in the historic downtown of Mexico City is lined with traditional cantinas and full of mariachi bands in the most marvellous outfits looking for business at all hours. Mexicans will still head to the plaza to secure a band for a family event or spend the evening drinking and singing among friends. Secure a table in the well-known Salon Tenampa on the north side of the plaza, order some mezcal and embrace Mexico at its finest.
Mexico City offers some of the most fashion-forward cultural and culinary experiences of any major metropolis, but it is also the home to many Mexican stereotypes – so park your incredulity at the door and spend a Friday night among the colourful and flamboyant characters of Mexico’s lucha libre. Purchase a mask on your way in, grab a salt-rimmed michelada (a Mexican drink made with beer, lime juice, and assorted sauces) and choose your técnico (a good guy) or a rudo (a bad guy) to cheer on. The energy of the arena is exhilarating, and you’ll find yourself screaming obscenities in no time at all.
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Wrestling Arena Coliseo
77 República de Perú
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Mexico City offers some of the most fashion-forward cultural and culinary experiences of any major metropolis, but it is also the home to many Mexican stereotypes – so park your incredulity at the door and spend a Friday night among the colourful and flamboyant characters of Mexico’s lucha libre. Purchase a mask on your way in, grab a salt-rimmed michelada (a Mexican drink made with beer, lime juice, and assorted sauces) and choose your técnico (a good guy) or a rudo (a bad guy) to cheer on. The energy of the arena is exhilarating, and you’ll find yourself screaming obscenities in no time at all.
Granted, these colorful, gondola-like boat trips are of one of the classic tourist activities in Mexico, and you'll need to summon all your hardcore negotiating skills when hailing a trajinera, but spending the afternoon cruising the ancient canals in this area by boat is a lot of fun. Many local families head here for long, lazy afternoon cruises, accompanied by hired mariachi groups who serenade them via boat. Beers and snacks can be hailed on the canal too, meaning you don't have to pack too much of a picnic.
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Xochimilco
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Granted, these colorful, gondola-like boat trips are of one of the classic tourist activities in Mexico, and you'll need to summon all your hardcore negotiating skills when hailing a trajinera, but spending the afternoon cruising the ancient canals in this area by boat is a lot of fun. Many local families head here for long, lazy afternoon cruises, accompanied by hired mariachi groups who serenade them via boat. Beers and snacks can be hailed on the canal too, meaning you don't have to pack too much of a picnic.
Shopping
If you don’t have the opportunity to visit one of Mexico’s pueblos mágicos, the Saturday market in San Angel is the closest you’ll get to experiencing the cobblestoned charm of rural Mexico. Fountains splash lazily in the centre of squares surrounded by beautiful historic buildings painted in antique shades of red, yellow and pink. Wander through the local artist’s market, sidestep the diners overflowing onto the pavements and take a moment to roam the gardens of San Jacinto. Finish the afternoon in the courtyard of San Angel Inn savouring a perfectly prepared margarita.
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Mercado San Angel
1787-1801 Av. Revolución
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If you don’t have the opportunity to visit one of Mexico’s pueblos mágicos, the Saturday market in San Angel is the closest you’ll get to experiencing the cobblestoned charm of rural Mexico. Fountains splash lazily in the centre of squares surrounded by beautiful historic buildings painted in antique shades of red, yellow and pink. Wander through the local artist’s market, sidestep the diners overflowing onto the pavements and take a moment to roam the gardens of San Jacinto. Finish the afternoon in the courtyard of San Angel Inn savouring a perfectly prepared margarita.
No trip to Mexico is complete without a few souvenirs and La Ciudadela is the place to peruse some of the finest artisanal gifts from around the country. Brightly painted Mexican ceramics, hand-blown glasses and woven textiles in the form of purses, cushion covers and ponchos make it difficult to leave without spending a few pesos. For those less inclined to shop, the square next to the market holds impromptu dance lessons at the weekend and older Mexican couples can be found learning new routines to a retro ghetto blaster. On the other side of the square, the Jose Vasconcelos library is a majestic example of an old building being re-appropriated and a wander among its vast collections is i
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La Ciudadela
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No trip to Mexico is complete without a few souvenirs and La Ciudadela is the place to peruse some of the finest artisanal gifts from around the country. Brightly painted Mexican ceramics, hand-blown glasses and woven textiles in the form of purses, cushion covers and ponchos make it difficult to leave without spending a few pesos. For those less inclined to shop, the square next to the market holds impromptu dance lessons at the weekend and older Mexican couples can be found learning new routines to a retro ghetto blaster. On the other side of the square, the Jose Vasconcelos library is a majestic example of an old building being re-appropriated and a wander among its vast collections is i
When it comes to home decór, this newly opened concept store in an old restored mansion in the Roma is doing a lot of things right: They've gathered a handful of supremely tasteful, local textile and accessories brands—all previously basically unknown in the city—like Bindilou, Namuh, and San Miguel Allende's Casa Acanto, and brought them under one roof. In addition there's also our favorite, Trinitate, which makes gorgeous white-glazed tableware a la Astier de Villatte, and an endless variety of garden ornaments. Basically, you can come here and decorate an entire home in purely hand-crafted goods, without it looking folksy or tired. Plus, they've also brought a handful of clothing brands w
ROMA QUINCE
67 Medellín
When it comes to home decór, this newly opened concept store in an old restored mansion in the Roma is doing a lot of things right: They've gathered a handful of supremely tasteful, local textile and accessories brands—all previously basically unknown in the city—like Bindilou, Namuh, and San Miguel Allende's Casa Acanto, and brought them under one roof. In addition there's also our favorite, Trinitate, which makes gorgeous white-glazed tableware a la Astier de Villatte, and an endless variety of garden ornaments. Basically, you can come here and decorate an entire home in purely hand-crafted goods, without it looking folksy or tired. Plus, they've also brought a handful of clothing brands w
This is probably one of the best shops for high-quality Mid-Century antiques in the city, as owners Cecilia Tena and Lucía Corredor split time between Berlin and New York buying and importing their finds back to their shop in Polanco. You'll find retro credenzas, Herman Miller tables and chairs, Anglepoise-style lamps, and everything you need to stock a vintage bar—all in great condition and displayed in inspiring vignettes. The owners were living in Berlin when they got the idea to open up a vintage shop in Mexico city, hoping to bring a little bit of its playfulness into modern Mexican interiors.
Decada Vintage Furniture
62 Dr. Atl
This is probably one of the best shops for high-quality Mid-Century antiques in the city, as owners Cecilia Tena and Lucía Corredor split time between Berlin and New York buying and importing their finds back to their shop in Polanco. You'll find retro credenzas, Herman Miller tables and chairs, Anglepoise-style lamps, and everything you need to stock a vintage bar—all in great condition and displayed in inspiring vignettes. The owners were living in Berlin when they got the idea to open up a vintage shop in Mexico city, hoping to bring a little bit of its playfulness into modern Mexican interiors.
Rodrigo Rivero Lake's office in a penthouse apartment in Polanco and his warehouse in Naucalpan are kind of insane, packed to the brim with museum quality antiques from Mexico, India, and beyond, along with paintings and sculptures by major modern Mexican artists. An incurable collector, he's spent a lifetime on the hunt both in Mexican flea markets, at European auction houses, and on the road in India. On the weekends, he heads to the Lagunilla Antiques Market in Mexico city, where all the vendors know him by name, and always have a thing or two to show him.
Rodrigo Rivero Lake
Rodrigo Rivero Lake's office in a penthouse apartment in Polanco and his warehouse in Naucalpan are kind of insane, packed to the brim with museum quality antiques from Mexico, India, and beyond, along with paintings and sculptures by major modern Mexican artists. An incurable collector, he's spent a lifetime on the hunt both in Mexican flea markets, at European auction houses, and on the road in India. On the weekends, he heads to the Lagunilla Antiques Market in Mexico city, where all the vendors know him by name, and always have a thing or two to show him.
Francisco Cancino's line of sleek, pared down women's clothing is a big hit among Mexico's magazine editors, and we can see why. First there are the elegant, season-less silhouettes that make his clothing a wardrobe perennial, and then there's the fact that it's all handmade by artisans across the country. Fittingly, his first shop in Polanco, designed by Emiliano Godoy and Tuux, is built with the same local, sustainable principles as his clothing. Check out Yakampot's sister brand, Arroz con Leche, for adorable kids clothes.
Yakampot
355 Monte Athos
Francisco Cancino's line of sleek, pared down women's clothing is a big hit among Mexico's magazine editors, and we can see why. First there are the elegant, season-less silhouettes that make his clothing a wardrobe perennial, and then there's the fact that it's all handmade by artisans across the country. Fittingly, his first shop in Polanco, designed by Emiliano Godoy and Tuux, is built with the same local, sustainable principles as his clothing. Check out Yakampot's sister brand, Arroz con Leche, for adorable kids clothes.
The brainchild of Maggie Galton, a NYC transplant who spent years working with artisans across the country, and business brain Maria Eladia Hagerman, Onora sells beautiful handicrafts designed for contemporary homes. Banish visions of multicolored fiestas from your head, though, their palette is restrained to black, white, grey, beige, and the occasional pop of color, and the products themselves are exquisite. They carry black clay candleholders from Oaxaca, table runners from Chiapas, serving dishes from Puebla, and much more—this shop makes us want to start over and redecorate.
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Onora
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The brainchild of Maggie Galton, a NYC transplant who spent years working with artisans across the country, and business brain Maria Eladia Hagerman, Onora sells beautiful handicrafts designed for contemporary homes. Banish visions of multicolored fiestas from your head, though, their palette is restrained to black, white, grey, beige, and the occasional pop of color, and the products themselves are exquisite. They carry black clay candleholders from Oaxaca, table runners from Chiapas, serving dishes from Puebla, and much more—this shop makes us want to start over and redecorate.
Long silk dresses, draped trousers and culottes, and delicate blouses are the kind of feminine pieces you'll find at Peruvian designer Sandra Weil's flagship store. Located in Polanco, in a new complex of cool clothing and design boutiques, you can also find her elegant line of wedding dresses here, hanging in a beautiful system of vertical plywood racks designed by the up-and-coming architects Zeller y Moye. If you can't find what you're looking for, you can enlist her couture service to tweak any of her designs just for you.
Sandra Weil
185 Av. Emilio Castelar
Long silk dresses, draped trousers and culottes, and delicate blouses are the kind of feminine pieces you'll find at Peruvian designer Sandra Weil's flagship store. Located in Polanco, in a new complex of cool clothing and design boutiques, you can also find her elegant line of wedding dresses here, hanging in a beautiful system of vertical plywood racks designed by the up-and-coming architects Zeller y Moye. If you can't find what you're looking for, you can enlist her couture service to tweak any of her designs just for you.
This nomadic design market has been going since 2010, with 15 editions to date, where participating artists, fashion and product designers, and food and drink purveyors sell their wares. They're massive shopping events, where you can walk away with some pretty great finds from some of the best names in design, including clothing from Carla Fernández and Carolina K, mezcal from Mezcal Amores, furniture by Oscar Hagerman and Pirwi, and beautiful chocolates from unelefante. Watch their site for the announcement about their next edition.
LONJA MERCANTIL
48 José María Morelos
This nomadic design market has been going since 2010, with 15 editions to date, where participating artists, fashion and product designers, and food and drink purveyors sell their wares. They're massive shopping events, where you can walk away with some pretty great finds from some of the best names in design, including clothing from Carla Fernández and Carolina K, mezcal from Mezcal Amores, furniture by Oscar Hagerman and Pirwi, and beautiful chocolates from unelefante. Watch their site for the announcement about their next edition.